Moab of the North
Six epic rides, from single track to the open road.
“Have you been on a mountain bike before?” the rental manager at Wheaton’s cycle shop asked.
“Oh, sure,” I said. He didn’t ask me if I had ever ridden a mountain bike on a mountain-bike trail. Good thing, because my middle-aged male ego might not have allowed me to tell the truth: Not since elementary school had I ever ventured off paved streets on two wheels.
I guess I’m a typical guy, because I never want to admit when I’m flying by the seat of my pants. I can hack this, right? It’s just a bike and a mountain.
A couple hours later, I found myself literally flying on the seat of my pants, hurtling down a narrow dirt track high in the mountains above Kalispell, laughing aloud at my false confidence in the bike shop and my long-secret reluctance to do this. Just a bike and a mountain, indeed. But on the saddle of a sweet Trek hardtail, looking out across the wide Flathead Valley, I briefly forgot that anything else existed — starting with my ego and any lingering work stress.
That evening, safely ensconced at Kalispell Brewing Co. with one hand wrapped around a frosty Cloudcraft IPA, I peppered my friend Tristan with questions about the biking opportunities that put Kalispell and its surrounding communities on the map and on Singletrack’s Best Mountain Bike Destination list. Tristan is one of those dudes who gets off running overnight races and pointing his bike or skis down “trails” that look more like cliffs to me.
“Basically, any kind of riding you want, it’s around here,” he said. “There are some seriously dedicated people around here who keep expanding the off-road trails, and there are great road routes in basically every direction.”
Here are some local favorites:
Mountain Bike Trails
Foy’s to Blacktail Trails — A dedicated crew of volunteers has worked for more than a decade to create and maintain this well-signed, smartly designed network of trails. Arrayed along a forested drainage just a few minutes southwest of Kalispell, the current trails can easily be tackled by a moderately skilled rider in a day. On my short circuit up the single-track Notch Trail, I was rewarded with beautiful views of Upper Foy’s Lake, a veritable carpet of wildflowers and some manageable challenges to whet my appetite. The newly completed Blacktail to Lakeside section with a nearly 3,000-foot vertical descent will more than satisfy expert riders, and the Boundary Trail, recently completed, added approximately 15 miles of stacked loop trails. Download a current trail map at foystoblacktailtrails.org.
Whitefish Trail — Traversing the wooded hills just minutes from Whitefish, this system of trails is another jewel of community-based conservation efforts. Featuring more than 26 miles of stacked loops, scenic overlooks, buttery single-track trail and gated logging roads, the Whitefish Trail is a must-visit destination for off-road cyclists. You can get there by seven trailheads mostly west of Whitefish Lake, with the exception of Swift Creek Trailhead just north of the lake. Download maps at whitefishlegacy.org.
Beardance Trail — The trail south of the village of Bigfork is the highest ranked trail in the region on Singletrack, the highly respected online bike-trail review site. The advanced trail boasts a killer climb, challenging rock obstacles, steep switchbacks and a sweet descent — in addition to some of the most jaw-dropping views of Flathead Lake.
Road Bike Trails and Roads
East Side Highway (U.S. Highway 35), Flathead Lake — For a scenic road ride that’s fun both on and off the saddle, you’d be hard-pressed to do better than the east side of Flathead Lake. You’ll pass through mostly flat agricultural land on your way to the lake between Kalispell and Bigfork, which incidentally is part of Adventure Cycling Association’s epic Great Divide Route. Once you get near the lake, the road begins to snake along the forested foothills of the Mission Mountains. Stop along the way for a pint of Flathead Lake Brewery’s award-winning 369’ Stout, or (in season) pick cherries at Fat Robin Orchard or Getman’s Cherry Red Orchard. If you’re feeling really ambitious, it’s about 97 miles all the way around the lake; but with so many enticing stops along the way, that’s best done as an overnight ride. Vehicle traffic can be heavy on summer weekends, so pick a midweek date if you can.
Rails to Trails — The nonprofit Rails to Trails of Northwest Montana has paved more than 10 miles of the Great Northern Rail Trail around Kalispell, from the town of Somers on the north shore of Flathead Lake west to Kila bordering the Smith Lake Waterfowl Production Area. These spurs offer relatively flat rides that are great for a family outing. At railstotrailsofnwmt.com download a trail map and learn more about the area’s history of converting abandoned railroad beds to recreational trails.
Going-to-the-Sun Road — Simply stated, you won’t find a more breathtakingly beautiful and challenging paved ride in all of America. The hale and hearty who head up this famed highway are rewarded with spectacular scenery, plus bragging rights for conquering the 3,500-foot elevation gain from Lake McDonald to Logan Pass. Distance from the park's west entrance is 32 miles. The first half is fairly flat; needless to say, the second half isn’t. (Make sure your brakes are tuned up for the return trip.) Restrictions apply; visit the park's website for more information.
HOP IN THE SADDLE
Need to rent (or buy) a ride? Get geared up in Kalispell at the following shops:
MORE TRAILS AND ROUTES
Lone Pine State Park (mountain bike) — More than six miles of hiking/biking trails, from well surfaced to steep single track, topped off by a terrific Visitor Center and fantastic bird's eye views of the entire valley. http://fwp.mt.gov/parks/visit/lonepine
Fish Trails (road bike) — 12 miles of pedestrian/bike paths around the city. Access from Edgewood off Wisconsin Avenue after crossing over the Burlington Northern viaduct.
Spencer Mountain (mountain bike) — About 15 miles of established trails for bikers, hikers, and horseback riders, taking off from Spencer Lake 4 miles north of Whitefish at Twin Bridges Road.
Big Mountain Road (road bike) — About 5 miles and 1,500 vertical feet of up, rewarded with 5 miles of down. A road biker's nemesis and heaven, rolled into one.
Whitefish Mountain Resort (mountain bike) — Hang your mountain bike on the lift and sashay up "the Big" to free ride over 20 miles of cross country trails from the superbly scenic Summit Trail to the Runaway Train. Bike rentals available at Snow Ghost Outfitters in the Village; 406-862-1996. Whitefish Mountain Resort/Mountain-Biking